The Orkney Islands are something quite extraordinary. A far-off archipelago 32km offshore of the most northerly of north Scotland, the day we steppe onto Orkney’s flat, storm-swept landscape we plunged feet first into the faraway past.

Taking advantage of being based on the Isle of Skye these days, we took a week-long trip up to Orkney, and found a raft of breath-taking things to do in the Orkney Islands.

8 astonishing things to do in the Orkney Islands

Wander around the harbour of Stromness

There are two main towns on the Orkney Islands, Kirkwall and Stromness. Both have interesting things to offer (Kirkwall has the most spellbinding Celtic cathedral, you won’t believe it), but Stromness is an unexpected beauty spot. The ferry from the mainland docks at Stromness and it’s so worth exploring: a traditional seaside town, its old fisherman cottages line the sea wall and the harbour is a tangle of lobster pots, mooring buoys and old fishing rope.  

There’s a museum in the centre about Scapa Flow (see below for what that is), a diving school, gracious Victorian hotels, cosy cafes and a flotilla of pretty independent shops to browse.

Eat local seafood & oatcakes

Scallops, freshly caught crab and homemade oatcakes are all on the local lunch menu wherever you go, so eating a bit of the fresh seafood is a bit of a must when looking for things to do in the Orkney Islands. While in the harbour town of Stromness we popped into cheery Julia’s Cafe Bistro on the seafront for just that.

Circle the Ring of Brodgar & the Stenness Stones

Grouped just a stone’s throw away from each other (hah), these two sets of Neolithic standing stones are to us a standout of the Orkney Islands. Older than Stonehenge, both circles of stones are between 4000-5000 years old (!) and like all standing stones, no one really knows what they’re for. That mystery is partly what makes them such an eerie and awe-inspiring sight to behold in the wide, flat landscape of the Orkneys.

Both are free to visit, and we suggest walking around the Ring of Brodgar at sunrise to fully appreciate its weird power.

If you want a guided tour with a Ranger, visit on Thursdays at 1pm.

Visit Maeshowe Chambered Cairn & Skara Brae village

Continuing the Neolithic theme, there are two sites on the Orkneys that give a bit more of an intimate glimpse into life 5000 years ago.

The Maeshowe is a multi-chambered burial tomb of breath-taking proportions. From the outside it’s looks like just a grassy mound, but inside it transforms into one of the finest examples of Neolithic architecture.

In midwinter the narrow passage is positioned to let in a perfect shaft of light from the setting sun – seemingly an important moment in the Neolithic calendar.

You could also visit the Skara Brae village, the astonishing remains of 9 Neolithic houses, uncovered in a storm in 1850. They are utterly remarkable – there’s even 5000-year-old furniture for God’s sake.

Together with the Ring of Brodgar and Stenness, they make up a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Wander the wild west Coast of Yesnaby

If you’re looking for a short and easy walk in the Orkney Islands but with a bit of wild and windy drama, walk along the coast of Yesnaby on the Mainland. There’s a car park at a lonely road’s end; walk left for an out-and-back over some ridiculously wild seascapes.

A good point to turn around and get wind-whipped back to your car is an impressive sea stack, about 2km south along the coast. It remains the only place we’ve ever been smacked in the face with flying seafoam.

Take a boat to Rackwick, Hoy

Stay in the Orkney Islands for a few days so you can take the local boat over to Hoy, another of the islands. It feels much more remote than the Orkney Mainland, even a bit spooky?

An unmissable sight is Rackwick bay, an enclosed beach flanked by some of the highest cliffs in Britain.

Hike the Old Man of Hoy

Whilst you’re on Hoy, you can’t miss hiking out to see the Old Man of Hoy, the 137m high sea stack that is one of Britain’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders.

The walk itself is about 4km long from the car park but is most definitely worth the effort, as the RSPB path is beautiful and the stack is genuinely one of the most dramatically bizarre things we’ve seen in this country.

Discover the history of Scapa Flow

What do the words Scapa Flow mean to you? For us they stirred up misty memories of military history, and it’s in Orkney the whole shebang unfolds.

Scapa Flow is a section of he sea just off Orkney where, at the end of the First World War, 74 German ships were intentionally scuttled (ie sunk) by their own commander. In scenes that can frankly barely be imagined, 52 sunk entirely. Today several wrecks still lie at the bottom of Scapa Flow, and they’ve become a world-famous dive site renowned for its historical and marine significance.

As well as the museum in Stromness, you can visit the sites and dive the wrecks yourself with the local diving school. It’s a remarkable chapter in Orkney history and something that has shaped the Orkney you’ll visit today.

Ancient and modern history, balanced together in the Orkney Islands.

What do you think of these wild and windswept things to do in the Orkney Islands?

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And finally, where did we stay?

As mentioned in our blog post about hiking to the Old Man of Hoy, we stayed at the Merkister Hotel (again!). We’ve been to Orkney several times and like the location of the Merkister on Orkney Mainland. It’s close to the Ring of Brodgar, Stenness Standing Stones, Yesnaby, ferry ports to other islands, basically the best bet for a base in our opinion.

The hotel has real character as it’s an angler’s hotel really. You’ll often see little fishing boats tied up on the shores of Loch Harray just below the hotel. And the artworks throughout the place is very fly fishing themed, which is pretty cool.

We’ve been welcomed warmly every time we’ve stayed. The rooms are clean and comfortable. Nothing special, but just what you want after long days out exploring. It also has a great hotel bar that serves local food and drinks. It’s perfect really, and we highly recommend it.