Strolling in Reims map |
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims ~ Palais du Tau ~ Place Royale ~ Hôtel de Ville ~ Halles du Boulingrin ~ Place Drouet d’Erlon ~ Cours Jean-Baptiste Langlet |
Distance: 3km |
Time (for us, ie slow): 1 hour |
Ascent: 21m (flat and easy) |
Found on foot: Gothic cathedral | Nightly light shows | Art deco food market | Champagne tasting | Parisian boulevards & cafes
Welcome to Reims! (pronounced, mystifying, like “Rasss”!) A city of wide boulevards, impressive classical and Gothic architecture, and elegant squares lined with cafes. On the Via Francigena route, Reims is actually only forty-five minutes from Paris by train, and we think it has some of that Parisian chic – it just also happens to be the Champagne capital of the world. A perfect size to get to know on foot, we’ve put together a wander around the city, taking in both big sights and hidden streets. So here’s our walk around Reims:
1. Office de Tourisme > Palais du Tau
Start the walk from outside the Office de Tourisme and walk towards the thirteenth century Reims Cathedral. Now you could go in because it’s AMAZING but we’re suggesting you go at the end of this walk instead – explore a little of Reims first!
What you should do right now is to go into the Palais du Tau, on the right of the cathedral. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, housing the art collections of the Cathedral. It’s here you also get tickets and a place on a tour of the cathedral roof and tower. There are GREAT views of Reims and beyond up there, and tours are the only way to get up. They go at specific times so don’t do what we did and mess this bit up – organise accordingly.
Also: the Cathedral lights up at night throughout summer in a quite spectacular light show. It’s a half-hour whirligig of colour and patterns, which is amazing and slightly weird. And importantly, there’s Champagne-in-a-tent too.
2. Palais du Tau > Place Royale
Continue walking round to the right of the Cathedral and Palais du Tau, veering left onto Rue Cardinal de Lorraine, keeping the Palais du Tau on your left.
A sunken garden will appear to your left. Follow the boundary of this garden, turn left onto Cours Anatole France. You get towering views of the other side of the Cathedral called the Gallery of the Kings (loads of kings perched on this side), and it’s much less busy.
Veer away from the garden towards Rue du Grand Credo, and you’ll soon arrive in Place Royale. A nice broad square, the Cathedral still peeps over the top of the elegant façades (mostly important-looking government offices).
3. Place Royale > Halles du Boulingrin
Wander onto Rue Colbert across the other side of the Place. This street takes you directly to the statuesque Hôtel de Ville. You pass through the Place du Forum which has a few of those said beautiful bars and cafes to lounge around in.
After this, you arrive in Place de l’Hôtel de Ville with the town hall in front of you. Go round to the right of the building and continue on Rue de Mars. This street has loads of eateries, but hang on if you’re walking on a Wednesday or Saturday in the morning as you’re about to stumble across Reims’ food market. It’s in the art deco Halles du Boulingrin (on your right), and sells all sorts of fresh delicious stuff.
4. Halles du Boulingrin > Place Drouet d’Erlon
Return to the corner of the Halles du Boulingrin at which you arrived and continue on the Rue de Mars. At the junction turn left and through the Porte de Mars – the widest arch in the Roman world, no less. Continue straight ahead through the Square of the Porte de Mars. You will see ahead of you a conveniently placed champagne cave – tours and tastes and potentially end of walk available.
Continuing around Reims though: from the Square of the Porte de Mars in the park walk along Allées des 7 et 8 Mai 1945 until you come to a road. Cross it and the tram lines into a shady circular park called Square Colbert – main station on your right. Walk to the far left corner of the park and the Place Drouet d’Erlon presents itself as a pretty, tree-lined avenue.
The street is bit of a magnet for tourists, with lots of bars and brasseries. It’s great to soak in – our favourite was the stylish Ernest Hemmingway bar on the right as you walk along.
5. Place Drouet d’Erlon > Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims
Turn left when you get to the gold topped fountain (a river representation, apparently) on Place Drouet d’Erlon onto Rue de l’Étape.
Wander down until you reach the wide boulevard of Cours Jean-Baptiste Langlet. It’s covered in green lawn and tram lines, (they ding, don’t worry) and leads to the cathedral on your right. Stroll back towards the the cathedral.
You are now back to the cathedral complex with the statue of Joan of Arc tucked away to your right. (She’s here, by the way, because she persuaded Charles VII to have his coronation in Reims in 1429. Told you it’s awesome). Go straight on into the cathedral and stand in awe in its huge Gothic interior. For us, inside is all about the 600 years of stained glass windows, all flooded with colour and light. Oh, and getting up the tower for Reims unfolding before you…
Love the photo of the cathedral and horseman. This walk could be published for anyone intending to visit Reims and not having too much time. It looks stunning.
We love Reims. We have been there a few years ago when we went for our CHAMPAGNE break with friends. Nice part of the world
It’s a GREAT place, we look forward to visiting it again in the future!