Time: 5 days |
Distance: 77.5km (map here) |
This is our Fishermen’s Way blog, the second post from walking the Rota Vicentina in Portugal. You can find the first one here and our Slow Travel Guide to the Rota Vicentina coming soon…
So far on the Rota Vicentina it’d been all windmills and woodland, walking inland in South West Portugal. But when we reached the Atlantic Ocean we planned to switch to the coastal trail, the Fishermen’s Way. (Or sometimes it’s called Fishermen’s Trail. Not sure why?)
Not gonna lie, this is why we had decided to walk the Rota Vicentina in the first place. We secretly wanted a bit of unknown, and the Fishermen’s Way winds through some of the most deserted parts of Alentejo and the Algarve. Just miles of rugged cliff edge, all wild beach and crag and dune the whole way. To us, a dream.
We didn’t really know how difficult or not it’d be of course. We had (as usual) absurdly large bags, to the point where a hotelier had laughed in our faces saying, ‘Courageous my friends!’ But hey, it couldn’t be more difficult than the Alps right?
The trail began properly at the village of Porto Covo, which to us seemed the definition of a fisherman’s village. Tiny, tiny white cottages lined a square with palm trees swooshing in the sea breeze. We camped there and set off early the next morning, so excited to begin.
And we were blown away. Let it be officially known: the Fishermen’s Way out of Porto Covo is stunning. We were walking on silvery marram grass cliffs, and the jutting edges of the coastline stretched out endlessly ahead, partly hidden by salty sea mist curling off the crashing waves.
It was more beautiful than that description though, more beautiful than any photo. It was huge and all-enveloping.
But also pretty slow. The trail sometimes dwindled to a walking boot wide, diving down all kinds of crazy coves and caves. We hauled ourselves up rocks with ropes, which was both fun and a little bit tricky. (Yeah, turns out we’re not that fit. Did it matter that much though? Not really).
We eventually hit some wide flat sandy beaches, which glittered gold in the sunshine. They were completely deserted and we walked in the surf, pretty damn delighted with the whole thing.
A day in, we miscalculated the walk. It wasn’t long, but we hadn’t factored in one thing: The Dunes. That’s right, in our mind they soon became capitalised: a Thing to be Reckoned With.
Beyond Porto Covo we sank ankle deep in sand and slowed to a trudge, cursing the 5000 bits of tent equipment we were carrying. We arrived into camp at dark, late and dog tired.
Look, this almost always happens at some point walking. Something that feels like a bad decision, a waste of effort, or just unlucky. It can be challenging. You’re walking everywhere, y’know?
But honestly: we never want to stop. We know the hard bits always –always– lead on to exciting things, and brighter days.
And this Fishermen’s Way: one minute we were watching fishermen and briny little seadogs chugging out in their boats, and strolling through their fishing sheds and cottages; the next we were craghopping, spotting storks and their nests on the rocks.
It kept changing too: dunes gave way to craggy rocks, sticking out from the shore like broken teeth. And as we walked on, the ground changed too, going a weird Mars red. The cliffs shelved off dramatically, hundred feet drops. ‘Not for people with vertigo!’ signs scream.
One evening, walking late, we diverted and walked down a 200 step staircase to a little beach, just to watch the sunset hit the rocks towering around us.
I could tell you what it felt like, or what we were doing or saying, but in those moments it doesn’t really matter at all. You could be anybody, or nobody at all, because all there is is the indifferent sea and the wind and the rust red cliffs, and you’re pretty temporary in all that. It’s a weird, awesome thought.
The unpronounceable Odeceixe was our final destination to join up with the Historical Way again and finish the Fishermen’s Trail. Odeceixe Bay is a huge sweeping beachland, and a complete highlight of the trail.
Odeceixe, incidentally, is also where our hotel host promptly forgot we were coming. We’ve now been travelling long enough to not find this particularly concerning though, we just sat in the pastelaria while frantic Portuguese telephone conversations were transacted over our heads.
We saw just glimpses of Odeceixe – windmills and picturesque streets. Instead we were eventually driven up to a villa in the hills, given fresh linen, a heater, and left to it.
And in this part of Portugal, and on this here Fishermen’s Way? Being left to it is just fine by us.
Our final journal entry about the Rota Vicentina in Portugal is coming up next on the blog. Have you read our first?
Beautifully written blog post – one of the best yet I think- really can feel the breeze and inhale the sheer unspoilt nature of this walk. The photos have a splendid light and capture this wonderful coastline magnificently.
Hard to top this…..
Thank you very much John! Sorry for the delayed reply, you were for some reason placed in the spam folder 🙁 It was a spectacular walk, and we are thinking about it fondly whilst we get ready for The Painter’s Way here in Saxony with -8 degrees temps!
I lost a flipflop wading the river at Odeceixe but I don’t hold it against the place. I liked it there. 🙂
Ahhh no! Difficult to get a replacement flip-flop in Odeceixe!
Great post, I’m thinking of walking this myself. What did you do for food, water, accommodation etc?
How long are you taking to walk the whole thing, from Santiago to Sagres?
Hi Paul, thanks for finding us and getting in touch! We have a blog post coming about all this very soon, so make sure you subscribe or revisit so not to miss the answers to your questions in full. But in short…there are cafes, restaurants and supermarkets of all sizes along the route in places that you’ll want to stay. There’s a great range of accommodation, including some wonderful rural turismo stays which we enjoyed on a few occasions, as well as B&Bs, hotels, and very good quality campsites. They’re all on booking.com really. We took just over two weeks, but we take things super slow. If you wanted to do it in under 2 weeks, not a problem. Hope this helps! It’s truly a great walk, we really enjoyed it. Thanks again for getting in touch, 🙂
Hi Luke and Nell
Love this and are planning the Fisherman’s trail in the Easter 2019. Want to camp and looks like that is what you did. Wild camping or at campsites or both? Would be great to know what you did and where…
Hi James and Becky, thanks for getting in touch, sorry for the delay we’ve been out and about exploring! Snowshoeing aadventures in the Dolomites currently being shared on Instagram and soon to be on the blog ( so keep an eye out 😉 ).
Also soon to be on the blog, an accommodation list of where we stayed along the RV, including the Fishermen’s Way. We camped at campsites right on the trail, which are really well serviced and cheap. We were told that wild camping is strictly forbidden, and didn’t see anyone doing it. We thought it was a bit strange because there were so many places for campervans to free park all along the coast! Great place to take a van if you have one 🙂
Subscribe to the blog if you haven’t already because you’ll then be notified of the RV accommodation blog as soon as its published.
Thank you for the comment, and keep an eye out for the accommodation blog.
L&N
Hi! Great article! We only have time to do a full day hike, but we are quite the adventurous sort, so I was wondering if you could tell me which section of the fisherman’s way is best? I was especially intrigued by the climbing up rocks with ropes bit 🙂 Thanks!
Hi Angela, thank you and good to hear from you! Glad you found us 🙂
Our favourite section was between Almograve and Cavaleiro, which is part of the section between the bigger villages/small towns of Vila Nova de Milfontes and Zambujeira do Mar.
For ropes you would have to walk the section between Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes, and even though it’s great coastal walking, it’s not quite as good as the section I mentioned above! 🙂
Over to you… have a great time!
Luke & Nell
Hi
Thanks for this. Where is the link for your blog for RV?
Im planning on doing it this june but would love more details.
Thank u
Hello there, you can go to https://whatifwewalked.com/category/rota-vicentina/ and find all our blog posts on the trail! 🙂
Hi I am looking to do 2-3 days of hiking along this/surrounding trails, which section would you suggest is best?
Hi Rosie, Vila Nova de Milfontes to Odeceixe would be a good section to walk with 3 days to spare. Outstanding and varied coastal scenery.