Where do you stay on the Via Francigena?

It’s something we’ve been asked a lot. But, by using a bit of initiative, we managed to stay pretty much anywhere, from campgrounds to monasteries, on our four month walk to Rome.

There was no hard and fast way to find accommodation. Some we had been given by the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome when we joined, others like campsites we found on maps, friendly pilgrims would recommend places on the hoof, while our Italian guidebook had a helpful ‘Via Francigena accommodation’ bit for every section.

And there was always the chance meet with the odd person who would put us up for free in their house. Can’t beat Lady Serendipity!

The exciting upshot of this uncertainty is we have been able to stay in some unreal -UNREAL- places. Finding them has been one of our favourite parts of travelling on foot.

So to give you a bit more of an idea about Via Francigena accommodation, we’ve picked out 5 examples of the places we stayed in, and some really cool ones at that.  A lot of these options are pretty cheap, designed to help pilgrims on their way to Rome. NB: for these type of places, we found it pays to ring ahead generally.

We think this gives you a whole other angle on doing a walk like this – it’s a journey of discovery all on its own:

1. The Monastery
Location: Reims, France

First up is our stay in the gatehouse of the Benedictine Nuns Abbey in Saint-Thierry, just outside Reims. It involved ringing a giant doorbell to be let in the coaching gates, dinner with other convent guests, watching the nuns sing the Compline service at sunset, and finding a secret door out the back to the vineyards of champagne giant Veuve Cliquot.

Yeah, it was cool.

Via Francigena accommodation
Via Francigena accommodation

2. The Campsite
Location: Lac Leman (Lake Geneva), Switzerland

We camped a lot –a lot– in the first half of our walk, at sites which we generally just turned up at, even in midsummer. As we moved around Lac Leman we found some particularly fantastic camping spots, all dotted along the shoreline. But this one – near St-Saphorin – beat them all, with a pitch right by the water and the Alps beckoning us on.

Via Francigena accommodation
Via Francigena accommodation

3. The Hospice
Location: Great St Bernard Pass, Alps, Switzerland

Once we had scaled the Alps, a stay at the Great St Bernard Hospice seemed the perfect idea. It sits right at the top of the Pass (just metres from the Italian border) and has helped travellers make their way over the mountains for 1000 years.

It’s not just Via Francigena accommodation, the Hospice was jam-packed full of walkers from all over the Alps. It was the most surreally beautiful stay on the whole walk.

Via Francigena accommodation
Via Francigena accommodation

4. The Tower
Location: Palestra, Piedmont, Italy

Bang slap in the middle of the hot, steamy rice fields of the Vercelli region, we found this stay: a 1000 year old tower. Run as a guesthouse, the wonderful host does give special rates to pilgrims. We were bowled over by actually getting to stay in it! This tower is the last remaining of four, by the way, all of which once fenced the tiny town.

And just LOOK at the interior too!

Staying in a tower on the Via Francigena
Via Francigena accommodation

5. The Pilgrim House
Location: Radicofani, Tuscany, Italy

We found this ostello in the high village of Radicofani, 800m up in the Tuscan hills. Ostelli like this are like pilgrim hostels, set up for people walking the Via Francigena, and are generally donation-only. Which doesn’t really mean free, but more give-what-you-can (you need a pilgrim passport too).

The Radicofani one was our final one, sat right in the square, and felt like the most deeply authentic Tuscan home.

Via Francigena accommodation
View out of one Italian Ostello

We’ve included just 5 of the well-over-one-hundred places we managed to stay whilst walking the Via Francigena. Yep, we have 100 memories of places like this! Who wants to come with us next time we set out?

Do you have a question for us about Via Francigena accommodation? Comment and get in touch with us!