Hey, did you know Seville is the sunniest city in Europe?
So obviously, it rained the entire (and we mean ENTIRE) time we stayed in the Andalusian capital back in stormy March.
And here’s us thinking that the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain (haha, sorry).
So we were a bit stumped as to what to do in rainy Seville. Usually we love soaking up a city by just wandering so it was easy to feel kind of disappointed as we watched the palm trees droop in the squally rain.
But once we soon found another way of exploring. And in a strange way it was a more authentically slow experience; instead of walking miles and miles we just stopped. Focused on smaller, on nearer.
So here’s a day we had that really worked out well even though it rained (and rained). Think of it as just some suggestions if you ever find yourself wondering what to do in rainy Seville.
What to do in rainy Seville: our day
9 o’clock in the morning:
We got up, saw the rain, had a cup of coffee. When it didn’t stop, we headed out anyway with an umbrella lent to us by our Airbnb host. Staying inside when you want to explore feels frustrating, so away we went!
And because it was earlyish and wet, there was just no-one around. That meant it was a good time to visit the Real Alcázar de Sevilla, Seville’s royal Palace and must-see destination. It opened at 9.30am, and we were one of the first in.
9.30-midday:
We spent all this time in the Alcázar. There’s a staggering amount of detail etched into the walls of the fifteenth century royal palace. It’s made up of salons, receptions rooms, hallways and gardens, and tiled carved and marbled in the most intricate ways. Lots was under cover too so easy to explore slowly in the rain.
Lunch:
Finding lunch in the district around the Alcázar was pretty easy, and the earlier you go actually, the easier it is to get a seat. There are tapas bars everywhere, and we found one on Calle Abades. We perched on stools at high tables to eat a range of delicious and colourful little dishes. Our favourite was the veggie paella.
2-4 o’clock in the afternoon:
So the afternoon still stayed soggy so we hopped between pastry shops in Seville, dodging the heavy rain by visiting the famous Confitería la Campana. We stood at the bar with an espresso and eating torrijos, a sweet Sevillian delicacy typically served during Lent (when we were there).
We also went for a pick-me-up in La Canasta, a bustling chain bakery in central Seville. That might sound a bit uninspiring but it felt like we were right at the heart of city life; there we were sitting at the bar, sipping on fresh orange juice and could watch the waiters dish out quick coffees and pastries to a constant stream of rain-swept customers. Plus the location is pretty convenient to duck out of the rain into!
Before 5 o’clock:
It’s important to make it to the next spot before 5pm, as this is when it shuts! It’s the Monastario de San Lanardo, a convent that sells sweets to anyone that can find them! And it turned out to be one of the sweetest (haha!) little things to do in wet Seville.
We first spied the little doorway to the convent opposite its butter yellow church, and it led us into a quiet, sheltered courtyard, with just one window in the wall. So far so mysterious. We spoke through the (shut) window in the tiny bit of Spanish we had and a quavering voice returned. Then THEN the window magically revolved around to leave us a small parcel of sweets. Yes, really!
The sweets were eggy, very very sweet and shaped like little bells.
After 5 in the afternoon:
We actually had our evening meal at our AirBnB, sweets in hand, grateful to leave the umbrella to drip-dry in the bathtub. But there are some beautiful restaurants in the warren-like Triana area -where we were- which are cosy places to get warm, dry and full.
If your rainy day leads to another rainy day like ours did, we also visited Seville’s two undercover markets, open every day in the mornings. One is in Triana, the other in Feria, and both have a bustling foodie vibe. We liked both, particularly the traditional fish market at the centre of Mercado de Feria.
But personally if we had to pick what to do on one rainy morning, we’d go for the Spanish elegance of the Alcázar. You’ll see it in a way no one else will – aren’t you lucky it’s raining in Seville?!
A lovely walk through watery Seville….kind of in the English sightseeing genes to look for wet weather alternatives with coffee and pastries never too far away.
Ha ha didn’t think of it like that! Our upbringings in the UK have made us experts in exploring places via coffee shops and pubs! It’s an excellent way to travel 🙂
Lovely round up of Seville. Last time I was there it was 42 degrees so I was a bit reluctant to leave the hotel but for the opposite reason. It’s a fantastic city though, regardless of the weather.
42 degrees!!! Makes us think we would prefer the rain!? Can understand staying in the hotel room, presumably you had air conditioning… We agree, it’s a great city, with lots to see and do whatever the weather. Thank you for the comment, Paul!
Luke & Nell