The Lisbon tile walk you have to do

Distance: 4km (you can find the route here…)
Time: 3 hours (including stops for coffee!)
Found on foot: Tiles!

If you had asked us what we were most looking forward to in Lisbon, it would’ve been a close-run thing between Portuguese tiles and Portuguese tarts (we’re gluttons I guess).

And whilst our quest for the egg custard nata is a different story, azulejos (Portuguese tiles) became a little obsession for us. Tin-glazed ceramic and painted a dizzying array of colours, they’re literally everywhere in Lisbon.

So where oh where are the best Lisbon tiles? Ladies and gentlemen, we give you: our Lisbon tile walk. Follow at your lesiure.

You can either walk to start this little route -like we did!- or you can take the (cheap) Metro from the city centre to Intendente (on the Verde line).

If you take the train, head out and south along the main road for 100m. It’s here you’ll see some first major tilework: the lesser known side of Viúva Lamego ceramics factory, decorated impeccably in blue and white. We were in Lisbon at Chinese New Year too so:

But to continue the Lisbon tile walk. Take the side street to the left and then right to emerge in front of the impressive tiled frontage of the same Viúva Lamego. Now which is the best..?

It’s not just Viúva Lamego that’s impressive here: every single building is covered in a whirligig of tile. We actually think this makes this street one of the best in the city for tiles.

Oh, there’s also a teeny-tiny café here which does nata and other Portuguese fancies.

Follow the tiled side of the Largo back to the main road and continue in that direction. Keep an eye out on the left: we spotted tiles here, there, everywhere.

When you come to the big, busy roundabout (we’re sorry) take the road to the left -first exit!- and leave the traffic behind. Follow the narrow street with the tram lines. After 150m you’ll arrive at a bustling little Largo with tiles aplenty. Explore around and watch the pretty trams come trundling past.

Up the hill we go, along with the trams to the Largo Rodrigues de Freitas. Now you can take a detour here for a viewpoint of the city (and some more tiles), just take a hard left from the Largo uphill. Then come back down to continue on this here Lisbon tile walk.

From the Largo take the narrow street Rua Santa Marinha off to the left, slightly uphill. You weave to a sweet little square with very tempting café/restaurant where we had a great, very cheap lunch, sitting under a parasol and a lemon tree.

Carry on through the square to the top of this hill before descending to famous monastery São Vicente de Fora. You can go in here to have a look at their glittering gold and yellow tiles adorning the walls.

You can also go past São Vicente de Fora and walk under the sweeping stone arch on the left to find yourself in Campo de Santa Clara, a little gem of an area. An old flea market at the centre, on the left is one of the most elaborately tiled buildings on the walk: the blue, white and yellow beauty of number 124-126.

Beyond the flea market, again on the left-hand side, is the Copenhagen Coffee Lab (not on the website, so it’s like a secret?). It’s not especially Portuguese or tile themed, but it’s very important given that it has only been about 20 minutes since your last espresso. And it’s really very nice.

You can carry on walking downhill to see an interesting assortment of tiled and colourful houses circling the Panteão Nacional. Loop back to the Campo de Santa Clara whenever you like.

After São Vicente de Fora take a left downhill following a tram line. As the tram lines turn right, carry on downhill into the old dockworker’s district of Alfama. It’s narrow, winding and ancient – ridiculously atmospheric.

Wander slowly downhill until you come to a T-junction, about 150m down. Take a right here on Rua do Vigário, and quickly take an alleyway down to the left. There’s a flight of stairs with pretty tiled houses all the way down. Follow the steps to a secret terrace with views down on higgledy-piggledy Alfama.

Go back up from where you came and continue on briefly along Rua do Vigário before it becomes the Rua de Guilherme Braga.

As the road splits, take the right fork Rua do Salvador up to where everything gets a little touristy. Go left when you can and left again to follow tram tracks. This main, flat road will lead you to an open square, overlooking all of Alfama.

Continue along the tracks just round the corner to end of our Lisbon tile walk at the beautifully tiled terrace of Jardim Júlio de Castilho. It’s a blue white and red terrace garden built out on a ledge, so sit on its wall, look out over the water and breathe in.

Looking for more Lisbon tiles?

Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro: covered in mythological figures right on the tram tracks
No 24 Rua Do Sacramento à Lapa: kinda spooky tiled building in the Embassy district of Lisbon

Would you like to visit Lisbon? What do you think of our Lisbon tile walk as a route through the city? Share your thoughts with us as we always love to hear them!

Follow us on Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest to keep up with our travels.