Via Francigena | 6 | On Switzerland and Switzerlake

Via Francigena Part 6 route map |

Orbe ~ Lausanne ~ Cully ~ Vevey ~ Montreux ~ Villeneuve |

Distance: 90km (966/1,900km) |

S l o w time: 6 days |

Ascent: 1,104m |

Swiss city life | Like-nothing-else Bircher Muesli | Lake Geneva, or Lac Léman | Vines of Lavaux | The Swiss Riviera | Château de Chillon |

There were three things we immediately found out about Switzerland once we hopped over into it:

a) it’s hit-you-in-the-face beautiful;

b) it is indeed expensive;

c) it has different plug sockets to Europe. Who knew?

Yes it was all change for Switzerland! But this place – the Via Francigena has walked us through a slice of utter Swiss loveliness. It’s got lakes, it’s got mountains, and lots we didn’t even realise Switzerland had! Let’s go…

Once over the border with France we arrived in Orbe, a quiet town of multi-coloured streets. After we had had a mini-meltdown about plugs we found friendly Swiss people with perfect English to help us and we soon began to walk again through pretty, well-ordered countryside.

It wasn’t long before we spotted the giant azure expanse of Lake Geneva. (Or Lac Léman, if you like. That actually makes more sense because we weren’t anywhere near Geneva – the lake is that big.) We were walking to the lakeside city of Lausanne but as we reached its outer parklands, we didn’t actually notice; the Swiss Via Francigena had felt so much like walking through a big garden already. But there it was, suddenly sprawled out ahead.

Now, Lausanne: it’s typically chic and bustling, but with a young, almost alternative vibe. And it all runs so very smoothly. Built up from the shoreline of Lac Léman, it has a metro on the serious lean all the way up the hill, and a bus network that is nothing short of awesome. As all visitors to Lausanne are, we were given free unlimited travel, and its buses and metro network are easy-peasy.

Another amazing thing about Lausanne: because of the steep slope it’s built on levels, and each has an entirely different feel. Ding! You’ve reached a huge shopping destination. Ding! Here’s trendy foodie-ville. Ding! Suddenly you’re in a breezy port town, with steamboats heading out all over the lake. We particularly loved the area around the beautiful cathedral for winding staircases, facades like iced cakes and cute eateries.

And speaking of eating: in every one of Lausanne’s pretty cafés we began to notice a ‘house bircher’. Now never ones to resist tantalising café products we immediately ordered it, and it became our go-to breakfast food wherever we went (never mind that it cost £££££). In case you don’t know, it’s a mix of overnight oats, yogurt, apple, nuts, spices, dried fruit, and sometimes topped with compote. Available in most other countries but with absolutely no comparable effect. Guys: if you’re in Switzerland any time soon, follow our advice and try some Swiss Bircher Muesli!

Lausanne gave us a much-needed city fix so after two days we set off again, up the hillsides of Lac Léman. And out of nowhere, vines began. We have visited wine regions all over the world and let us tell you: for scenery, the Lavaux region might be the best we’ve ever seen! The Via Francigena took us right up into the steep terraces covered in vines: above us, below us, everywhere. We walked on flat, easy paths, with some just unbelievable views: lake below, mountains across, the route winding lazily round each little perfect peninsula. Oh and did we mention there’s really no one else around, even in peak summer? We spent three glorious days there.

After descending from the heavenly heights of Lavaux the Via Francigena hugs the shore of Lac Léman, passing through the chic waterside towns of Vevey, Montreux and Villeneuve. We had indeed reached the Swiss Riviera, with its elegant marinas and plush, pastel-coloured hotels sitting right on the lake. When we strolled through Montreux it even had its international Jazz festival on, and was abuzz with tourists, musicians and huge blacked out tour busses.

Okay, so with our scruffy walking gear and being on a pilgrimage and all, we weren’t really able to partake in the high-life of leisure that the Swiss Riviera offers. But we found we didn’t really want to; we liked just strolling through, soaking it all in – it felt like real travel.

And anyway, how fascinating it is to pass through all these different worlds and lives – something you only experience when walking. We’ve seen so much already on the Via Francigena since leaving Canterbury – it feels like a lifetime in itself.

In final stop Villeneuve we finally ran out of cheap places to stay. But a local woman came to the rescue, offering us her garden to camp in. She was wonderful, regaling us with wild tales of rockfalls and floods from the mountains around.

From there too we caught the sunset at nearby Château de Chillon. Great idea too: this castle is the most visited historic building in Switzerland, and is right on the Via Francigena!

It was our last night on the lake and watching it bathed in a pure golden light, empty of tourists, seemed like a perfect way to wave it goodbye.

This whole section of the Via Francigena is an absolute dream. A stroll around one of the most famous lakes in the world, with mountains either side? Through an undiscovered wine region, and beautiful Riviera lake towns? Er, yes please. If you wanted to do a section of the route for fun, here it is.

But alas, the next day, we left Lac Léman for good. The mountains had stood in front of us for days, and it was time for us to face them. One last look at the lake (and its lovely flat pavements) then off we went.

Things we found out while we were in Switzerland:

a) The Swiss are a friendly, cultured, global bunch;

b) The whole place just works so well; and

c) No seriously, it’s BEAUTIFUL.

Our next Via Francigena blog: let’s go up the Swiss Alps!

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